Koh Chang
For the first destination in our South East Asian adventure we chose Koh Chang island in Thailand and what a choice it turned out to be. The amazing food, pristine sandy beaches, a mountainous interior made up of protected national parkland and a range of local communities makes this a perfect place to live a chilled but adventurous lifestyle.
Koh Chang is Thailandβs third largest island and it took us about an hour by scooter to drive from top to bottom 1. The island can be reached from Bangkok by bus, car or a short flight, then a ferry from Laem Ngop (From Bangkok to Koh Chang). The climate on Koh Chang is tropical all year round, with rainy season from May to October and dry season which is regarded as the best time to visit between November and February.
Where did we stay?
We spent most of our time in two main areas Klong Son and White Sand Beach.
Our first destination was at a workaway to help stray dogs in Khlong Son which is the first area you pass when heading down the West Coast from the ferry point. We loved the area as it was very local and rarely visited by tourists, the food options were great and there is a very nice beach that is not too busy.
After three weeks at the workaway we decided to stay in White Sand Beach, mainly motivated by the variety of cafe options so we could work on the blog. At first, we thought it was going to be too touristy for us but we actually loved it. We stayed in a cheap and very basic bungalow that was right on the beach and went for a jog along the beach every morning. There are some great cafes here and good live music.
East Coast vs West Coast
It’s important to know when you go to Koh Chang that the island is split into two sides and there is no road connecting them at the bottom. We were told by the people that the Thai government didn’t want the island to turn into a destination for “hairy bikers” to do loops around.
The West coast of the island is the touristic side whilst there are few people living on the East coast, mainly farmers and fishermen. The main reason for the major tourist development on the West coast is that this is where almost all of the beaches are. However, in terms of natural beauty the East coast has lots to offer as well, including waterfalls, mangroves and islands.
We decided to stay on the West coast for all of our time on the island due to the beaches and better development, it was also nowhere near as busy as other major islands on Thailand. However, we ventured round to the East coast several times to check out the mangroves, waterfalls and fishing villages. If you fancy an adventure or to really get away from the crowds we are sure you would enjoy the peace and tranquillity of the East.
Where Should You Stay?
As well as Klong Son and White Sand Beach, we also stayed for a few nights in Klong Prao and Lonely Beach and toured the island quite a lot so we got a pretty good idea of what each place has to offer. Below are some details for our favourite areas on the island.
Note we have not included Kai Bae, this area didn't suit us due to lack of local food options and expensive bars. We have also missed out Bang Bao the main ferry point to the other islands, we only visited here a couple of times, it seems nice enough but there didn't seem to be a lot to do.
White Sand Beach
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Klong Son
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Klong Prao
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Lonely Beach
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Salakkok
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Where to Eat
Koh Chang is one of the best places either of us had ever been for food with local places never disappointing and even a very good standard of Western food if you know where to look. Most of our recommendations are local places that we found and never expensive touristy places except a couple of western restaurants for pizza, burgers etc. Note that some of the places had no name, no sign, some didnβt even have an English menu. In that case we will put the type of food in place of the name, you can refer to the pinned location on Google Maps.
Thai Food
This place became our go to restaurant, everything we tried was top quality and we tried a lot!
Thai Food
No sign, not even a menu, we thought we'd walked into someone's living room but the food was so good and cheap
Restaurant Eat Here
Tacky sign but the Dutch owner makes huge mouth watering homemade burgers and his wife is a great Thai chief
Bam & Boy
If you have never tried Thai style stewed chicken, go here at lunch and try it, amazing!
Salak Kok Seafood
The seafood in Salakkok is a must, we can highly recommend the deep fried fish with crispy lemon grass
Ta and Yai
Run by a local family, the food is top quality. Got to try the Red Curry in Young Coconut
Tao's Burger
If you need a break from Thai food but still want to eat cheap get one of Tao's homemade burgers
Our Favourite Experiences
Koh Chang is a big island and it has a lot to offer in terms of activities. Be aware that a lot of the sightseeing spots which come up on Google charge foreigners five times the price of locals. We tried both Koh Yak and Khlong Plu and were disappointed by the experiences so we will not recommend any of these but in our opinion some better alternatives.
Trekking with Tan
The only way to see the jungle in Koh Chang is to pay for a tour guide and it is worth the money!
Napalai Kitchen
You should definitely try a cooking class, 3 hours and 5 dishes with Bunny
Animal Voice
Hurry up Matthew! It's time to bring us for a walk. Why not volunteer to help these amazing doggies?
Massage on the Beach
There's nothing more relaxing than getting a massage and listening to the sound of the waves
SUP in the Mangroves
Friendly staff who taught us how to paddle and were happy to take lots of pictures
Lueam Waterfall
Nice waterfall, you can swim and walk around the jungle even if it's very easy get lost! Foreigners charged local price.
Kayak to an Island
Fancy a bit of a challenge? Ko Suwan is about 40 minutes from Klong Prao by kayak
Get a Bamboo Tattoo
Lulu got her first traditional bamboo tattoo, a Cambodian symbol of good fortune
Our Favourite Cafes
Most of our recommendations for cafes are places where you can sit and do work on a laptop since that was usually our main motivation to go. There are a range of nice cafes on the island though, you will not struggle to find whatever you are looking for.
Kohchahokkaido
We have been in this cafe for three weeks to work with our laptops every morning, coffee is delicious and you can use wifi and plug
Marin Coffee
We found two Marin Cafes around Koh Chang, the coffee is good and they have the possibility to work with your laptop
Marin Coffee
The second Marin cafe is in Klong Prao, we liked this one more as it was more spacious for working
Tr Coffee
Good coffee, smoothies, food, a nice friendly owner who charges good prices
Du Talay
This is actually a restaurant within a hotel but we would often sit and order a coffee, amazing view and cool nets for when you need a break
Apple Beachfront
You can try this place for a beachfront view and reasonable prices
Our Favourite Beaches
The island has some good beaches to choose from, we found that as we went further South the water tended to be a bit less clear. White Sand Beach is probably the nicest natural beach which is the reason for the main tourist development but there are lots of nice alternatives to escape the crowds.
White Sand Beach
Probably the nicest natural beach on the island although the sand is not actually white!
Klong Son Beach
This is essentially a private beach for a resort but you are never questioned, it is extremely clean and itβs a lovely place to relax
Lonely Beach
Likely to meet backpackers, solo travellers, party people. Not the longest beach but good sand and nice vibes
Long Beach
This is the only beach we found on the East coast. It is a long way to get there but it is very nice and we were the only people there
Our Favourite Bars
We didnβt drink in bars often in Koh Chang due to our budget and general preference to drink a beer on the beach at our place. But there were a few that were cool ones
Oodie's Place
We were surprised by the standard of music on the island in general but Oodies was definitely the winner
Dodo Bar
Very welcoming bar with a big screen to watch football, it has also a nice pool table and some drinks to enjoy
The White Elephant
Sport pub, we went here to watch some World Cup's games, manly Western food, but good ranges of beers
Tapas Bar
This was a little beach hut on White Sand beach which made great cocktails, a perfect sunset spot
Nature Beach
This is also a really nice accommodation, we stayed here for Lulu's birthday, chilled music and good cocktails
Kebab Station
Run by an English owner this pub offers a massive screen where you can watch football including a pool table
Some Practical Tips
- To avoid ATM charges and get the best exchange rate go to Bangkok Bank White Sand Beach with your passport.
- A scooter is the best way to get around the island. If not you can use a shared taxi.
- The activities and spots which charge tourists 200 baht are often disappointing and there are better cheaper options.
- There is a massive hill in the middle of Koh Chang, be careful not to drive too fast around the corners!
- There are no free Elephants on the island, only captive ones, we would advise against giving these people money.
Closing Thoughts
If you want a relaxing holiday, surrounded by beautiful beaches and unspoilt jungle, consider Koh Chang island. If you are looking for a party island you would probably be better choosing somewhere else. We loved it there and it was exactly what we were looking for, a chilled environment with adventurous activities, beautiful nature, great food and the opportunity to soak in some authentic Asian culture.
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(2021, April 24). How Big is Koh Chang? Iamkohchang.com. Retrieved February 19, 2023, from https://iamkohchang.com/blog/how-big-is-koh-chang.html ↩︎
